What, I had to wonder, is the founding family of Amore Victoria — the Uptown pasta palace — doing opening a taqueria? Going back to their roots, turns out. They’re from Mexico and eager to honor their abuela’s recipes. Then, another question arose: With East Lake Street’s storefronts a veritable buffet of Cucina Mexicana, is there room within the zip code for another?
Carla Waldemar is an award-winning food/travel/arts writer who co-edited the former Twin Cities Reader, then served as food editor for Better Homes and Gardens and senior editor of Cuisine magazines. She edits the annual Zagat Survey of Twin Cities restaurants and contributes food and travel articles to local and national publications.