Though its 10-pin roots trace back to the 1930s, the Bryant-Lake Bowl as we know it is rolling up on its 20th anniversary. In 1993, a 29-year-old Kim Bartmann opened her hybrid bowling alley/theater/wine and beer bar in a pre-condo-era Uptown. In restaurant years, 20 is the new 80. But the BLB’s cachet among neighborhood dwellers and alt-type regulars hasn’t waned with its senior status. The cozy, come-as-you-are restaurant is an institution in an ever-changing neighborhood.